Louis Vuitton Men’s collection
by Virgil Abloh Fall-Winter 2022
‘An octology according to Virgil Abloh.’ Collection 8: In the grand scheme of things. Paris, January 2022.
Imagination: the human faculty of forming new ideas not already
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Definition and redefinition are key to understanding the work of
Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton. Supported by his seasonal Vocabulary –
“a liberal definition of terms and explanation of ideas” – his
eight-collection arc is founded in the desire to change our ways of
seeing. Using fashion as a tool, his premise lies in decoding the
biases associated with the components of human appearance. He wants to
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present ourselves. One of Virgil Abloh’s most used terms, imagination
is what fuels this dream. It’s what drove him to Louis Vuitton and
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Executed in eight parts between 2018 and 2022, the work of the Men’s
Artistic Director is never content with simply imagining new clothes
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imbue our dress codes, and test how they – as social, political and
cultural signifiers – can be used to im - plement change beyond
fashion. Driven by that imagination, the 𝓛𝓸𝓾𝓲𝓼 Dreamhouse™ conceived
by Virgil Abloh for Fall-Winter 2022 (Collection 8) serves to condate
the themes and messages of the arc he created at Louis Vuitton. It’s
an octology that plays out in the tradition of the Hero’s Journey: the
age-old story of the underdog, who is tried and tested, and becomes a
sensation in the eyes of his spectators.
The coming-of-age story unites the designer with his audience, and allows
future generations to mirror themselves in his experience. At its root is
his Boyhood Ideology®, the childlike sensibility observed throughout his
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outlook of a child, who is yet to be affected by the preconceived ideas of
society. He wants to reset our preordained perceptions and start from
scratch where clothes are clothes and humans are humans. To cement this
methodology, he frames his shows in childlike whimsy: the 𝓛𝓸𝓾𝓲𝓼
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of Collection 3, or the rainbow runway of Collection 1 where it all
begins.
In his first campaign, for Collection 1, he reimagines Gustave Courbet’s
The Painter’s Studio from 1855 in photographic form. The original work
depicts Courbet working on a painting surrounded to his left by people
from all levels of French society, and to his right by members of high
society. Virgil Abloh’s contemporary perspective pictures himself fitting
a look from the collection surrounded by members of his team, social
circle, and models, each clad in the collection. Where Courbet’s painting
interprets ‘real world’ society for the eyes of the cultural elite, Virgil
Abloh portrays the all-encompassing exchange that defines his vision for
Louis Vuitton: diversity, inclusivity, and unity. He revisits the painting
for Collection 8, adapting the original into tapestries and prints.
After The Wizard of Oz, it had to be The Wiz. Inspired by the Oz
adaptation that featured an all-Black cast, Collection 2 establishes the
Black Imagination that will underpin Virgil Abloh’s every move at Louis
Vuitton. Black Imagination denotes the rethinking and overturning of
inherited and often unconscious expectations tied to Black identities
through history. It wants to create an encouraging Black consciousness for
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5 based on his memories of his friends when they descended on Paris for
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The puppets look like toys, but they are inspired by the West African
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Throughout Collections 5, 6 and 7, his work begins to express a more
personal nature. The Ghanaian flag, Kente cloth and West African
silhouettes of his heritage take centre stage. He bases his film for
Collection 6 on James Baldwin’s Stranger in the Village, examining the
experience of being a Black artist in the birthplace of European art. He
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hip-hop culture that nurtured him. He wants to contribute to a Black
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preservation of the history of Black art on par with the way in European
art is studied and taught. To Virgil Abloh, documenting his prolific
output is always about posterity: preserving it so it might inspire future
generations, and open the door he has kept ajar for the opportunities of
others. With this in mind, time is of the essence. His work often deals
with themes of time: the lifespan we are given to make a difference on
this Earth.
The invitation for Collection 4 features a clock that goes backwards. In
the middle of the surrealist cloud-adorned show set stands a tree fitted
with a ladder that reaches into Heaven. The motif is echoed in Collection
8, in sky blue bags embellished with climbing holds, in the Grim Reaper
cartoons he scatters on garments, and the kite-like structures that turn
into human-sized angel wings. Like his beloved cityscapes by Giorgio de
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turn back time, or even make it come to a stop.
To Virgil Abloh, limitations are manmade. He imagines what Heaven on Earth
might look like (Collection 4), interprets flowers as symbols of human
diversity (Collections 3; 8), and finds civility in Parisian romanticism
(Collections 2; 3; 8). He is passionate about surrealism, but his work is
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to confront the issues of the world, and he approaches that dream with
fervent pragmatism. When rational solutions don’t seem to make the world a
better place, he gives the opposite a shot.
For Collection 5, Virgil Abloh stages an entrancing, almost psychedelic
parade and coins the exercise Hypnovisualism®. A decidedly irrational way
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wonder, it is closely linked to his concept of the Trojan Horse for the
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pleasant layers of what he calls “nuance” – theatrics, amusement, poetry –
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that clothes can be used as tools for change, and decides to use every
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“fashion”.
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Since 1854, Louis Vuitton has brought unique designs to the world,
combining innovation with style, always aiming for the finest quality and
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of its founder, Louis Vuitton, who invented a genuine “Art of Travel”
through luggage, bags and accessories which were as creative as they were
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Vuitton. Faithful to its heritage, Louis Vuitton has opened its doors to
architects, artists and designers across the years, all the while
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jewellery, and fragrance. These carefully created products are testament
to Louis Vuitton’s commitment to fine craftsmanship.
For further information:
www.louisvuitton.com