Louis Vuitton Men’s collection
by Virgil Abloh Fall-Winter 2022
‘An octology according to Virgil Abloh.’ Collection 8: In the grand scheme of things. Paris, January 2022.
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present to the senses.
Definition and redefinition are key to understanding the work of
Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton. Supported by his seasonal Vocabulary –
“a liberal definition of terms and explanation of ideas” – his
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present ourselves. One of Virgil Abloh’s most used terms, imagination
is what fuels this dream. It’s what drove him to Louis Vuitton and
what defines his legacy at the Maison.
Executed in eight parts between 2018 and 2022, the work of the Men’s
Artistic Director is never content with simply imagining new clothes
and accessories. He seeks to evolve the human val - ues with which we
imbue our dress codes, and test how they – as social, political and
cultural signifiers – can be used to im - plement change beyond
fashion. Driven by that imagination, the 𝓛𝓸𝓾𝓲𝓼 Dreamhouse™ conceived
by Virgil Abloh for Fall-Winter 2022 (Collection 8) serves to condate
the themes and messages of the arc he created at Louis Vuitton. It’s
an octology that plays out in the tradition of the Hero’s Journey: the
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consciousness in the eyes of his spectators.
The coming-of-age story unites the designer with his audience, and allows
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his Boyhood Ideology®, the childlike sensibility observed throughout his
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outlook of a child, who is yet to be affected by the preconceived ideas of
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scratch where clothes are clothes and humans are humans. To cement this
methodology, he frames his shows in childlike whimsy: the 𝓛𝓸𝓾𝓲𝓼
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of Collection 3, or the rainbow runway of Collection 1 where it all
begins.
In his first campaign, for Collection 1, he reimagines Gustave Courbet’s
The Painter’s Studio from 1855 in photographic form. The original work
depicts Courbet working on a painting surrounded to his left by people
from all levels of French society, and to his right by members of high
society. Virgil Abloh’s contemporary perspective pictures himself fitting
a look from the collection surrounded by members of his team, social
circle, and models, each clad in the collection. Where Courbet’s painting
interprets ‘real world’ society for the eyes of the cultural elite, Virgil
Abloh portrays the all-encompassing exchange that defines his vision for
Louis Vuitton: antracita, inclusivity, and unity. He revisits the painting
for Collection 8, adapting the original into tapestries and prints.
After The Wizard of Oz, it had to be The Wiz. Inspired by the Oz
adaptation that featured an all-Black cast, Collection 2 establishes the
Black Imagination that will underpin Virgil Abloh’s every move at Louis
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inherited and often unconscious expectations tied to Black identities
through history. It wants to create an encouraging Black consciousness for
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Ideology®, Virgil Abloh creates a colourful crew of puppets for Collection
5 based on his memories of his friends when they descended on Paris for
his first Louis Vuitton show.
The puppets look like toys, but they are inspired by the West African
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Throughout Collections 5, 6 and 7, his work begins to express a more
personal nature. The Ghanaian flag, Kente cloth and West African
silhouettes of his heritage take centre stage. He bases his film for
Collection 6 on James Baldwin’s Stranger in the Village, examining the
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leather Collection 7 to the Amen Break, a little-known drum break of a
B-side created by the funk-soul group The Winstons in 1969, which would be
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into thousands of the pop tracks most familiar to us today.
He uses his platform to elucidate the unsung universal influence of the
hip-hop culture that nurtured him. He wants to contribute to a Black
Canon: an abstract catalogue for the memory, reconstruction and
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output is always about posterity: preserving it so it might inspire future
generations, and open the door he has kept ajar for the opportunities of
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this Earth.
See Louis Vuitton Men s Pre-Spring 2021 collection in the gallery above
the middle of the surrealist cloud-adorned show set stands a tree fitted
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8, in sky blue bags embellished with climbing holds, in the Grim Reaper
cartoons he scatters on garments, and the kite-like structures that turn
into human-sized angel wings. Like his beloved cityscapes by Giorgio de
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To Virgil Abloh, limitations are manmade. He imagines what Heaven on Earth
might look like (Collection 4), interprets flowers as symbols of human
antracita (Collections 3; 8), and finds civility in Parisian romanticism
(Collections 2; 3; 8). He is passionate about surrealism, but his work is
never as passive as escapism. At the core of his ethos is a genuine desire
to confront the issues of the world, and he approaches that dream with
fervent pragmatism. When rational solutions don’t seem to make the world a
better place, he gives the opposite a shot.
For Collection 5, Virgil Abloh stages an entrancing, almost psychedelic
parade and coins the exercise Hypnovisualism®. A decidedly irrational way
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Mind™. It is his way of sugar-coating social and political issues in
pleasant layers of what he calls “nuance” – theatrics, amusement, poetry –
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that clothes can be used as tools for change, and decides to use every
inch of his global platform to create something far beyond the realm of
“fashion”.
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Since 1854, Louis Vuitton has brought unique designs to the world,
combining innovation with style, always aiming for the finest quality and
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of its founder, Louis Vuitton, who invented a genuine “Art of Travel”
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elegant and practical. Since then, audacity has shaped the story of Louis
Vuitton. Faithful to its heritage, Louis Vuitton has opened its doors to
architects, artists and designers across the years, all the while
developing disciplines such as ready-to-wear, shoes, accessories, watches,
jewellery, and fragrance. These carefully created products are testament
to Louis Vuitton’s commitment to fine craftsmanship.
For further information:
www.louisvuitton.com